The short answer
Al Talli is a traditional Emirati embroidery in which women braid coloured cotton threads, often around a silver or gold thread, into decorative bands. It edges the collars, sleeves and hems of women's garments. UNESCO inscribed Al Talli on its List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding in 2022.
How is Al Talli made?
By braiding, not stitching through the cloth. The craftswoman works on a kajuja, which Dubai Culture describes as a metal stand with an oval cotton pillow on top [source]. Using between 8 and 50 spools of thread, she braids them into a narrow band that is later sewn onto the garment. UNESCO notes the braid is usually created with a combination of six cotton threads [source].
Which colours and metals are used?
Historically, silver and gold. Dubai Culture records that in the past women used silver or gold colours to weave the braids, combined with pure cotton thread, and that black, green, red, white and silver became the most common colours over time [source]. The metallic thread is what gives Al Talli its glow against dark or jewel-toned fabric.
embroidering women's clothes using brightly coloured threads
Where does Al Talli appear on clothing?
On the edges that frame the body: collars, cuffs and hems of women's formal wear [source]. UNESCO describes it as embroidering women's clothes using brightly coloured threads, neatly knitted into the sleeves and other parts of female robes [source]. Sleeve cuffs are where it is seen most, catching the light with every movement of the hands.
Why did UNESCO list it as needing urgent safeguarding?
Because the number of women who practise it has fallen. The craft is practised primarily by women, with men helping by sourcing materials or selling finished work [source]. The inscription was decided at the 17th session of UNESCO's Intergovernmental Committee in Rabat in 2022 [source], which commits the UAE to programmes that pass the skill to new generations.
How does Al Talli inspire modern couture?
Through placement and pattern rather than copying. Narrow bands at the cuff, a braid-like line of beads along a neckline, metallic thread against a deep colour: these echo Talli in a contemporary gown. For a henna night look or a milcha gown, a band of real hand-braided Talli can be commissioned and applied by hand. Read how to bring Emirati heritage into a modern gown.
Where can you see Al Talli today?
In museum collections, heritage festivals, cultural centres that run Talli workshops, and on traditional garments worn for Eid, National Day and weddings. Watching a craftswoman braid on a kajuja is the best way to appreciate how much time goes into a few centimetres.
How long does Al Talli take to make?
A long time. The braid is built a few millimetres at a time by crossing many threads by hand, and a single cuff band can take many hours. That time is part of its value, and why a hand-braided band is usually reserved for the most visible places.
How is Al Talli taught today?
Through cultural programmes, workshops and family teaching, which UNESCO's urgent safeguarding listing in 2022 was meant to encourage [source]. Learners start with simple braids using a few threads before moving to more threads and complex patterns. Heritage festivals in the UAE often include live demonstrations, which are the best way to see the kajuja in use.
Frequently asked questions
Is Al Talli the same as embroidery?
It is a braiding technique that produces decorative bands, which are then attached to garments, so it is usually grouped with embroidery.
When was Al Talli inscribed by UNESCO?
In 2022, on the List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding.
Can Al Talli be added to a modern wedding gown?
Yes, as cuff or neckline bands, or as inspiration for beadwork placed in the same way.
What is a kajuja?
The traditional stand used to braid Al Talli: a metal base with an oval cotton cushion on top, on which the threads are braided.
Which colours are traditional in Al Talli?
Historically silver and gold with cotton thread; over time black, green, red, white and silver became the most common colours.